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|Disc Glide Willie G Special FXDG : 1983|
|Duo Glide FL : 1962–1964|
|Duo Glide FLF : 1962–1964|
|Duo Glide FLH : 1955–1964|
|Duo Glide FLHF : 1958–1964|
|E : 1936–1950|
|EL : 1936–1952|
|Electra Glide Anniversary FLH : 1978|
|Electra Glide Classic FLHC : 1979–1981|
|Electra Glide Classic Side Car FLHCE : 1979–1981|
|Electra Glide Fat Bob FLHFB : 1965–1970|
|Electra Glide FLB : 1965–1970|
|Electra Glide FLBF : 1970|
|Electra Glide FLFB : 1965–1969|
|Electra Glide FLH : 1965–1978, 1981|
|Electra Glide FLH-74 : 1980|
|Electra Glide FLH-80 : 1978–1980|
|Electra Glide FLHB : 1965–1970|
|Electra Glide FLHF : 1965–1975|
|Electra Glide Heritage FLH : 1981|
|Electra Glide Police FLHP : 1981|
|Electra Glide Police FLHP-74 : 1979–1980|
|Electra Glide Police FLHP-80 : 1979–1980|
|Electra Glide Police FLP : 1971–1972, 1974–1975|
|Electra Glide Police FLPF : 1971–1972|
|Electra Glide Sport FLHS : 1977, 1980–1981|
|ELF : 1952|
|ELP : 1949|
|ELS : 1951–1952|
|EP : 1949|
|ES : 1936–1950|
|F : 1942–1950|
|FL : 1941–1961|
|FLE : 1953–1956|
|FLEF : 1953–1956|
|FLF : 1952–1961|
|FP : 1949|
|FS : 1941–1950|
|Hydra Glide FLHF : 1955–1957|
|Hydra Glide FLS : 1951–1952|
|Low Rider FXS : 1977–1978, 1981–1982|
|Low Rider FXS-74 : 1979–1980|
|Low Rider FXS-80 : 1979–1980|
|Low Rider FXSB : 1983–1984|
|Softail Standard FXST : 1984|
|Sturgis Belt FXB : 1980–1982|
|Super Glide Electric Start FXE : 1974–1984|
|Super Glide Fat Bob FXEF : 1980–1984|
|Super Glide Fat Bob FXEF 74CI : 1979|
|Super Glide Fat Bob FXEF 80CI : 1979|
|Super Glide Kick Start FX : 1971–1978|
|Touring Electra Glide Classic FLHC : 1982|
|Touring Electra Glide FLH : 1982–1984|
|Touring Electra Glide Special Edition FLHX : 1984|
|Touring Electra Glide Sport FLHS : 1982–1983|
|U : 1937–1948|
|UH : 1937–1941|
|UHS : 1937–1941|
|UL : 1937–1948|
|ULH : 1937–1941|
|US : 1937–1948|
|Wide Glide FXWG : 1980–1984|
have just ordered this but read reviews and wonder about people who complained about stripped threads after torqued down. Torqued down? Why? What do you think the tab washer is for? Using this on a 5-6 speed or a 4sp that was made for?ILL see when it gets here and I use it and no I wont pull out my torque wrench that's setting in a corner drawing dust. Call me old school or whatever I use lock washer and blue lock thread. If that doesn't do it let it fall off.
Parts worked well ! Thank you !
Great idea, but poorly manufactured. Maybe I was just unlucky and got a defective one, but the flats of the nut were so irregularly machined that the socket would not fit over the nut. The nut did have six sides, but it was far from a regular hexagon. Had to send it back.
Perfect fit...Great Job
great updated parts
happy with it and will order again.
Have used this part for years with good results
Good Stuff Again
As I torqued down to 100 lbs. the threads stripped out. Had to use the old nut that I had from 2000.
best in market
Threads striped out completely at 30 foot pounds of torque, HD Specs call for 150 foot pounds. Great idea, would have been nice if this product was made from the “HIGHER GRADE STEEL” as stated in the description, and not scrap metal from China. Total waste of money, if you put it on at 25 to 30 pounds; sooner (most likely) or later your drive sprocket will come off and then you can order a new transmission case and what ever else blows apart.
Threads stripped well before reaching factory torque specs. Need a lot of bearing grease to hold down the o-ring long enough to install.
great fitment. great product. works excellent
Works well to seal a problem leak, without having to swap out a notoriously difficult to change seal. Note: to preserve the integrity of the O-ring, make sure you tighten and torque the nut by hand instead of using an air or electric impact wrench. Otherwise the thin O-ring might bind in its shallow groove and would be pinched or cut if the nut spins too fast.
I like the idea of the seal made in the nut, but I had to shim my bearing support (open primary) to gain clearance.
Excellent product. Stopped my leak immediately.
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