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Early Style Narrow Front Fender

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  • Early Style Narrow Front Fender
Product may vary from photo(s).


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15 Reviews

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J&P Part: 7100150


Early Style Narrow Front Fender

• Exact original style fender for most narrow glide front ends

• Comes unpainted for a finish of your choice

• Chrome brackets and rivets included and can be attached after paiting

• Replaces H-D OEM’s 59007-73TB, 59111-74

• Chrome brackets come uninstalled for ease of painting the fender

Important Product Notes

Product Specs

Applicable Tire Size: 100mm, 110mm

Applicable Wheel Size: 18″, 19″, 21″

Frame Type: Narrow Glide

Material: Steel

OEM Reference: 59007-73B

Position: Front

Product Color: Gray

Sold in Units: Each

Stock Replacement or Custom: Stock Replacement

Strutless Fender: No

Style: Narrow Glide®

Width: 5″ wide


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Click (+) to view all compatible models

Harley-Davidson® Models

Disc Glide Willie G Special FXDG : 1983
Dyna Low Rider Convertible FXDS-CONV : 1994–2000
Dyna Low Rider EFI FXDLI : 2005–2006
Dyna Low Rider FXDL : 1993–2005
Dyna Super Glide Custom EFI FXDCI : 2005
Dyna Super Glide Custom FXDC : 1992, 2005
Dyna Super Glide EFI FXDI : 2005
Dyna Super Glide FXD : 1995–2005
Dyna Super Glide Police FXDP : 2004
Dyna Super Glide Sport EFI FXDXI : 2005
Dyna Super Glide Sport FXDX : 1999–2005
Dyna Super Glide Sturgis FXDB-S : 1991
Dyna Super Glide T-Sport FXDXT : 2001–2003
Low Rider FXS : 1977–1978, 1981–1982
Low Rider FXS-74 : 1979–1980
Low Rider FXS-80 : 1979–1980
Low Rider FXSB : 1983–1985
Sportster 1000 Café Racer XLCR1000 : 1977–1978
Sportster 1000 Electric Start Anniversary XLH1000 : 1978
Sportster 1000 Electric Start XLH1000 : 1985
Sportster 1000 Roadster XLS1000 : 1979–1981, 1983, 1985
Sportster 1000 Touring XLT1000 : 1977
Sportster 1100 Electric Start Anniversary XLH1100 : 1987
Sportster 1100 Electric Start XLH1100 : 1986–1987
Sportster 1200 50th Anniversary XL50 : 2007
Sportster 1200 Custom XL1200C : 2005–2010
Sportster 1200 Custom XLH1200C : 1996–2003
Sportster 1200 Forty-Eight XL1200X : 2011
Sportster 1200 Low XL1200L : 2008–2011
Sportster 1200 Nightster XL1200N : 2009–2010
Sportster 1200 Roadster XL1200R : 2004–2009
Sportster 1200 Sport XLH1200S : 1996–2003
Sportster 1200 Standard XLH1200 : 1988–2003
Sportster 883 Custom XL883C : 2004–2009
Sportster 883 Custom XLH883C : 1999–2003
Sportster 883 Deluxe XLH883 : 1988–1995
Sportster 883 Hugger XLH883 : 1988–2003
Sportster 883 Iron XL883N : 2010–2011
Sportster 883 Low XL883L : 2005–2010
Sportster 883 Roadster XL883R : 2006–2011
Sportster 883 Roadster XLH883R : 2003
Sportster 883 Standard XL883 : 2005–2009
Sportster 883 Standard XLH883 : 1987–1991, 1993–2003
Sportster 883 SuperLow XL883L : 2011
Super Glide Custom FXRC : 1985
Super Glide Disc Glide FXRDG : 1984
Super Glide Electric Start FXE : 1974–1984
Super Glide Fat Bob FXEF : 1980–1985
Super Glide Fat Bob FXEF 74CI : 1979
Super Glide Fat Bob FXEF 80CI : 1979
Super Glide FXR : 1986–1994
Super Glide FXR2 : 1999
Super Glide FXR3 : 1999
Super Glide FXR4 : 2000
Super Glide Grand Touring FXRD : 1986
Super Glide II FXR : 1982–1985
Super Glide Kick Start FX : 1973–1978
Super Glide Low Rider Anniversary FXRS : 1988
Super Glide Low Rider Convertible FXRS-CONV : 1989–1993
Super Glide Low Rider Custom Anniversary FXLR : 1987
Super Glide Low Rider Custom FXLR : 1987–1994
Super Glide Low Rider FXRS : 1982–1991
Super Glide Low Rider Sport FXRS-SP : 1987–1993
Super Glide Police FXRP : 1984–1994
Super Glide Sport Glide FXRT : 1983–1992

Customer Reviews

Overall Rating:
4/5 based on 15 ratings

4 by

While this fender isn't a "spitting image" of the original, it is close enough. Since 2004 I've ordered 3 of these. The stampings aren't 100% but a good sanding and a tad of body putty and they look real good. After all your getting this for less than 60 bucks.

2 by

I expected this "stock replacement fender" to be a fairly exact replica of the original Harley front fender but it was not! The corner radius of the cross section was smaller than the original and the sides of the fender angled out instead of straight down. The ends of the mounting tabs should have been cut square but instead they were rounded and sharpened. I bought this fender to avoid the work necessary to take out a slight bend in my original fender but when I saw the replacement I decided to return it and fix my original . I really don't understand why replica parts for older Harleys are not exact replicas - at least in appearance since the people buying these parts want to maintain the original look of the bike. Companys that sell these parts (like J&P) need to be much more critical to avoid parts that stray from the original design.

4 by

the fender is fine. The brackets are 2nd rate in workmanship,nice chrome non withstanding. The steel rivets suck,period. Think outside of the box when putting these brackets on. Take one of those steel rivets down to the hardware store & try to find some made of aluminum.Make sure they are the same size in diameter,they should be a bit longer.I prefer to use pop rivets after I remove the nail cause the hole goes all the way thru & they are much easier to work with.I also prefer to put a thin washer on the open end.A 1/4 inch washer is too sloppy, get a metric washer that fits snugly.#8 or #10,don't recall which.Put the rivet thru the hole in the tab,thru the bracket, put the washer on & mark where the washer ends. You want about 1/8-3/16 sticking above the washer.If it's too long trim it back. You need a tapered punch of some type to use to flare out the rivet, a 1/4 in bolt ground to a taper will work.After flaring, you take the round end of a ball peen hammer & start peening the rivet down flat.Tapping works fine cause aluminum is soft & there is no need to beat on it.When flaring & peening you need a flat piece of steel under the rivet head & lay out some rags where the fender will lay,getting it level to the steel plate.Put the steel plate under the rivet head only, don't let it get under the fender.After you have flared & peened down all the rivets you can either polish them or paint them. Guaranteed if done properly it won't rattle or come loose until it is drilled out.The 1st side took me an hour & the second side took 45 min. If you can't find 1/4 inch aluminum rivets locally there are quite a few online sites that sell them. I got mind at B&B Fastners in Ormond Beach,Fl. I have found out over the years that a lot of aftermarket parts are more of a universal fit for several different bikes than they are a perfect fit for any one certain bike irregardless what the mfg says. This fender is no different & needs tweaking in the rivet department.

5 by

perfect fit

5 by

Looks like it will work well.

5 by

Good workmanship.Needed some minor repair and some tweaking to fit.Nothing unexpected tho.Would recommend buying.

4 by

This is a well made and sturdy fender. The supplied brackets are nicely chromed, as are the extensions to the fender ends. These are round heavy steel, not flat stamped steel as it appears on the picture. That was a nice surprise, but what wasn't, and the only reason for not rating this fender as "Best", were the supplied rivets for attaching the brackets to the fender. They are not 'pop' rivets, they are round headed. I got little help online or at my local body shop, or at 'Fastenall'. No one could offer a reasonably simple method of making them work, short of pounding on them with a specialized punch{ 4 sale here at JP, $20 something dollars}, or buying a specialized mechanical and pricey device, or bring them to a Harley Dealer. Don't want to bring 'em to Harley, don't want to pound on my newly painted fender, don't want to buy an expensive new tool I will only use once. I used nuts and bolts, and it was a piece of work, but, looks and works great for me.

5 by


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