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Smooth-Bottom Fuel Tank

J&P Part: 720-497

7 Reviews

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Smooth-Bottom Fuel Tank
Product may vary from photo(s).


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Description for Smooth-Bottom Fuel Tank 

Smooth-Bottom Fuel Tank

• Here's an updated tank design with rounded lower edges

• Very similar to the latest factory design, but with petcock locations and mounts for early or late frames

• Includes mounting hardware. 19-3/4″L. Tunnel is 3-1/4″ front, tapering to 3/4″ high in the rear

Product Specs

Capacity: 3.3 gallon

Length: 19-3/4″L

Sold in Units: Each

Fitment for Smooth-Bottom Fuel Tank 

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Click (+) to view all compatible models

Harley-Davidson® Models

Sportster 1200 Custom XLH1200C : 1996–2003
Sportster 1200 Sport XLH1200S : 1996–2003
Sportster 1200 Standard XLH1200 : 1995–2003
Sportster 883 Custom XLH883C : 1999–2003
Sportster 883 Deluxe XLH883 : 1995
Sportster 883 Hugger XLH883 : 1995–2003
Sportster 883 Roadster XLH883R : 2003
Sportster 883 Standard XLH883 : 1995–2003

Customer Reviews for Smooth-Bottom Fuel Tank 

Overall Rating:
4/5 based on 7 ratings

3 by

Did a trial fit and everything looked good on my 2001 Sportster 883 Hugger. Went through the meticulous process of sealing the tank and sent it out for a professional paint job. When doing the final mounting the fuel cock outlet places the cock about 3/4" too far forward where the interference fit is a problem with the engine barrel frame that the choke pull is attached to. I was only able to get it to clear the frame by having the valve face rotated a little. Fixing this will require redrilling the tanks mounting yokes, the rear one will require some sort of close in drill to do, . Also the ground wire tapped holei s not present so drilling a new grounding wire hole and screwing a self tapping screw into it is required. I relocated the grounding wire to the front yoke to make it easier to drill neatly. The vent is also in an alternate plase so a quick visit to the auto parts store for some fuel/vacuum line fittings and hose will be required. Don't kid yourself to do this job properly will be expensive, Tank +sealing kit+ 2K automotive paint or the services of a paint shop and several hours of tank prep & painting. My cost came up to a little over $500 by the time I was done so make sure the tank doesn't leak by pumping it up with a bycycle pump and pre-drill any adjustments you see necessary to the mounting yokes by fully installing the fuel cock and adjusting things before sending it out for exterior paint work.

3 by

First example received had a pinhole leak imperfection along one of the welded seams, JP resolved the issue quickly sending a replacement. I prepared my thanksgiving turkey....errr replacement gas tank for my motorcycle today. I am replacing my old tank for several reasons that add up to it no longer being serviceable. First you buy a raw unfinished replacement steel tank as pictured. Then you seal up the tank and pump it up with a bicycle pump while submersing it in the bath tub to confirm there are no leaks; Then you fill the tank with water based degreaser and wash it out and rinse; Then you acid etch the inside steel with a water based etch so the corrosion resisting tank liner coating will stick to the inside. Then rinse it out and bake it in the oven at about 250 degrees, kind'a looks like a Turkey breast in there, for about an hour, When hot you remove it and blow it out with a hair dryer for a while to remove any remaining moisture from the steel interior. Then you pour the tank paint-like sealer into the tank, button it up and roll it around in your lap for about 45 min.; When done you drain any excess sealer that is puddling inside the tank, takes another 45 min. of tilting the tank back and fourth until it stops draining. Now I have to wait at least three days for it to dry. Inspect the tank interior with a flashlight through the gas cap port. Note the tank sealer along the rough welds along the bottom of the tank. If the now dry sealer has not evenly covered the welds pore some of the remaining sealer back in the tank and re-coat the welds along the bottom of the tank and redrain as above. Set out and let the tank dry for several days. Use lacquer thinner or some other volatile solvent to carefully degrease the tank. Let it sit out a while to confirm that all the oil has finished leaching out of any seams in the tank surface. If Oil is observed reclean and repeat the process until all the oil is gone. Painting will require two or three coats of sandable 2K primer, may require some glazing compound and repriming for any deep surface imperfections at the welded seams. two coats or more of compatible 2K color, three or more coats of 2K clear coat gloss. It's a lot of work. Andy

3 by

Looks great compared to stock. Petcock bung a little off, had to modify motor mount to get it to fit on my '01 sporty

5 by

Great fit. Almost identical to stock tank on my 99 sportster.

5 by

great buy

4 by

it fits good, looks good, but when you order an unfinished tank you have to have it pressure tested and sealed to make the warranty valid.

4 by

This tank is virtually identical to the stock tank on my '00 XL1200C. The finish is a little rough, my paint guy had to do a bit of body work on the top to smooth it out, but after painting it looks great. One thing to watch out for - the petcock hole is just slightly further back than stock, enough so that the stock petcock bumps into the motor mount. If you rotate the stock petcock just a bit it clears it (just barely), or you might be better off going with a skinnier aftermarket petcock (Pingle or Golan).

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Important Product Notes

Must Use Tank Sealer (#720-469 or 900-715) For Warranty To Be Valid On All Gas Tanks. WARNING: Most tanks are shipped unpainted. Caps are not included unless noted. All gas tanks should be fitted, pressure-tested and sealed BEFORE being painted to eliminate potential problems.

Shipping Note

Additional oversized shipping charges will be applied for expedited shipments within the contiguous U.S. Shipping charges outside the contiguous U.S. are calculated by weight and dimension during checkout.

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